The great Raf Simons cover says it all: this is one of the landmark publications on Belgian Fashion Design.
Luc Derycke & Sandra Van de Veire (eds), Belgian Fashion Design. Amsterdam: Ludion, 1999. Paperback, 320 pp. 33,2 x 20,5 cm.
A very good copy. Right-hand corners of the paperback front cover are slightly raised, with faint traces of dog-earing. The left-hand corners show minor scuffing (see pictures). The back cover has a slight crease. The upper and lower edges of the spine show slight ribbing from production. The front cover displays light shelf wear. Despite these minor flaws, the bookblock is tight, the pages are clean, and the spine is unbroken. Overall, a very good copy of this iconic book.
Early 1980s Belgian Fashion
Belgian fashion designers have left an indelible mark on the global fashion landscape since the 1980s. This superbly designed book on Belgian fashion offers one of the earliest overviews of the country's fashion design scene. Editors Luc Derycke and Sandra Van De Veire demonstrate how Belgian fashion design evolved during the 1990s. This landmark publication combines 48 profiles of Belgian designers with 28 conceptual and theoretical sections. The photographs included are by internationally acclaimed photographers who have influenced international photographic styles of the 1990 like dirty realism and heroin chic. The book in itself is a proof of Luc Derycke's mastery of book design, confirming his reputation as one of Europe's best book designers.
Fashion designers
include Dirk Van Saene, Véronique Leroy, Raf Simons, Martin Margiela, Walter Van Beirendonck, AF Vandevorst, Veronique Branquinho, Olivier Theyskens, Jurgi Persoons, Ann Demeulemeester, Josephus Thimister, Anna Heylen, Kaat Tilley, Patrick Pitschon, Elvis Pompilio, Bernard Willhelm and many more
Concepts discussed
Fashion Show (arena); Staging the Metamorphosis (theatre), In a language (joint); challenging Art (horizon); read as a Style (definition), generating Metamorphosis (displacements); of the Body (soccle); processing Architecture (construction); appearing in the Street (arena); mixing Language (re-appearance); reflecting Function (pragmatics); applying Craft (tradition); commenting History (costumes).
The Antwerp Six and beyond
Belgian Fashion Design looks at many of the designers who have helped shape Belgium's contemporary fashion landscape.
In 1986, a group of young Belgian designers gained international recognition at the British Designers Show in London, earning them the nickname 'The Antwerp Six' due to the difficulty in pronouncing their Dutch names. This group, which included Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee, Dirk Van Saene, Ann Demeulemeester, and Dries Van Noten, presented their work in Paris the following year alongside their contemporary, Martin Margiela. According to fashion journalist Suzy Menkes, they had a significant impact on fashion, influencing the 1990s style. Their success brought global attention to Antwerp, paving the way for a second generation of designers in 1995, led by Raf Simons. Lieve Van Gorp, Wim Neels, Patrick Van Ommeslaeghe, and other designers preserved Antwerp's avant-garde legacy.