Camilla Nickerson and Neville Wakefield (eds), Fashion Photography of the Nineties, Zurich, Berlin, New York: Scalo, 1998. Second Scalo edition. 240 pp. paperback.
Condition: fine. Pages and cover clean and intact.
One of the cult books on 1990s fashion photography, edited by senior fashion editor at American Vogue Camila Nickerson anthologizing the work of 28 photographers from different backgrounds.
By juxtaposing heroin chic scenes characterized by skewed-angle flash photography of pale, skinny models in grubby apartments, with high-end digital fashion photography by van Lamsweerde/Matadin, Richard Prince's rephotographed images, or Cindy Sherman's staged photographs, Nickserson constructs a visual context that puts 90s fashion photography on a par with prevailing artistic practices.
Combining heroin chic (a simulation) with Nan Goldin or Wolfgang Tillmans pictures only reveals both sides of photographic practice as constructions of 'reality'. Corinne Day's gritty fashion images expose Goldin's practice to be as staged as Sherman's. In the end, the juxtaposition of art and fashion photography reveals all photographic images as stylized fictions.
Includes photographs by Wolfgang Tillmans, Terry Richardson, Steven Meisel, Steven Klein, Saul Fletcher, Richard Prince, Paolo Roversi, Nobuyoshi Araki, Nick Knight, Nan Goldin, Mary Ellen Mark, Mario Sorrenti, Jürgen Teller, Jeff Burton, Jack Pierson, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Ellen von Unwerth, David Sims, David Armstrong, Craig McDean, Cindy Sherman, Charles Ray, Catherine Opie, Bruce Davidson, Annie Leibovitz